Vernazza, Cinque Terre
We head out early from Florence to Pisa leaving at 8:28AM. We arrive in Pisa at 9:28AM and have about 4 hours to explore this city (and of course grab the ubiquitous shot of holding up the leaning tower!).
After grabbing a bite to eat there, we'll hop on the train again at 1:44PM for the hour long trip to Monterosso al Mare, which is the furthest village within Cinque Terre. We're staying at La Spiaggia, which is right on the beach. And at some point this afternoon, we are meeting up with an old friend of Ross' from our home town, Ty Volkman, who is stationed in Vincenza, Italy.
La Spiaggia
The Cinqueterre takes its name from five small villages - Corniglia, Manarola, Monterosso al Mare, Riomaggiore and Vernazza - that defiantly cling to the rugged Ligurian coastline. They are, and have been for many centuries, practically inaccessible by land due to the harsh, steep terrain which juts up at their backs. You can see them by hiking from town to town or by ferry or take the little train that runs between them. As it goes at frequent intervals, one can hop and skip from one village to the next: have a coffee in one, lunch in the next and a digestivo further on. One recommendation is to go to the terrace of the little bar at the end of the promontory in Vernazza. If we are there in late afternoon and can stay until sunset, it is supposed to be an unforgettable spectacle.
Riomaggiore
Each of the Cinqueterre towns has something different to offer. Monterosso has the most famous beach, a 16th-century Capucchin monastery with some fine paintings, and an ancient castle. There are great views of the other towns in Corniglia, along with a more secluded beach. Vernazza, perhaps the most dramatic, juts straight out over the water, with crashing waves below to the left and a postage stamp boat harbor to the right. High above are the remains of a ruined medieval tower. Riomaggiore is picturesque, a collection of crumbling pastel-colored houses tumbling down to the horseshoe-shaped dock. Manarola has excellent swimming off the rocks and an authentic fishing village, it is probably the most genuine of the "lands."
We're planning on hiking as much as we can on the 23rd (Saturday). If we tire along the way (or just want to do something different) we can always hop a ferry to the next village. The hike is supposed to be spectacular, and we all are bringing appropriate shoes to do it!
The hike
After the hike, we'll head back to our little village and relax on the beach in front of our hotel.
Apparently speedos are optional...
I've mentioned it in an earlier post but...Though not as well known as many of Italy's other regional cuisines, the food along the Ligurian coast is second to none. Seafood, seafood and more seafood, and we'll also remember to try the local wines. First and foremost among them is the famous sciacchetrà from the Cinqueterre. CANNOT WAIT!!!!!!!!!!
Purchase the Cinque Terre Card Treno (see below) that allows unlimited daily travel between the villages. Since they are only a minute or so apart, we'll probably use it often. When we board the train, we need try to find out which carriage stops at the platform in our destination. Otherwise we'll have to walk through passageways in the tunnel.
The Via dell'Amore was recently reopened after being closed for five years due to a landslide. The endangered part has now been enclosed in a tunnel for future safety, and a ticket is needed in order to walk along it. Another recently restored path is the Sentiero Azzurro. Tickets are also needed for the electric buses which connect the parking lots to the village centers and the Guardiola Tower Naturalistic Observation Center. To make your visit easier and more affordable, you may purchase one or more of the three different types of card available:
Cinque Terre Card
Cinque Terre Card Treno (Train)
Cinque Terre Card Battello (Ferry)
These cards provide the following services:
•Free use of ecological park buses and public elevators
•Free access to trekking path n° 2 (which includes "Lovers Lane"), the naturalistic observation centers and recreation areas
•Free entrance to the Sciacchetrà Museum in Manarola, the History Museum in Riomaggiore and the ancient Oil Mill in Groppo
•Free entrance to the Virtual Aquarium in Monterosso al Mare (currently closed due to restoration) and the multimedia room in Levanto
•Free access to the Anchovies Salting Centre in Monterosso al Mare
•Three hours free bicycle hire (pending availability) for trails in the upper area of the park
•A discount on products purchased at the Information Centres located throughout the Cinque Terre Park
•A map of the walking paths (double format A4, with walking times and distances of the paths)
The Cinque Terre Card Treno also includes a railway timetable and allows unlimited train travel on the Levanto - La Spezia Centrale - Levanto line (on Direct Regional and Interregional trains in 2° class) for the dates stated on the user's card.
The Cinque Terre Card Battello also includes a ferry timetable and allows unlimited ferry travel within the Marine Protected Area of the Cinque Terre. It also allows unlimited train travel on the Levanto-La Spezia Centrale – Levanto line (on Direct Regional and Interregional trains in 2° class).
The Cinque Terre Card and Cinque Terre Card Treno are valid for 1, 2, 3 or 7 days. The Cinque Terre Card Battello is valid for 1 day only.
Proceeds from the sale of the cards are directed towards the recovery and maintenance of the territory in order to prevent its widespread hydro-geological breakdown. Proceeds are also used to provide transport and information services, and to develop the typical products of the Cinque Terre territory.
Monterosso
Monterosso - San Giovanni Battista
The church San Giovanni Battista was built directly at the port, and it uses this old watchtower (from the 15th century) as its campanile (bellfry).
You may enter the church freely and without restrictions during the day and we might take a rest there and relax a bit, when it is really hot outside, but rather cool inside the thick stone walls.
Tomorrow - July 24th - we'll sadly say goodbye to Ross and Ty, and Doug, Caroline and I will head to Venice!
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